But it's probably something worth checking when doing maintenance. This was suggested but I am not sure how this would manifest in a print. I did loosen the belt screws to clean the carbon rods and I did retighten them. I disregarded this idea because if filament feeding was an issue I'd expect to see it on every layer, not just the infill layers. But if you've run out of idea, it's worth trying. Also defeats the idea that the AMS acts as a dry box. I put plastic spool covers on the cardboard spools and put them in the AMS with the lid closed never had an issue. I've gone through 5 spools of Overture PLA Plus filament printing Gridfinity organizers for all of my tools. I assume the people that pushed this didn't know that rectilinear does NOT cross over itself on the same layer, but grid (a similar infill pattern) does. I print rectilinear 90% of the time, adaptive cubic 9.999% of the time, and gyroid 0.001% of the time. Someone suggested that gyroid would fix my issue. I was using my Overture PLA Plus Orange profile which I had used before with no issues. I create custom profiles for every filament brand/type/color. I know Orca saves these values in the filament profile, but I prefer Bambu Studio. You can't add Flow Dynamics values (why Bambu?) and I really did not want to recalibrate the flow dynamics of 50+ different filaments. I consider this the nuclear option, the last resort. But, I had another spool of Overture PLA Plus that I used earlier that day and it printed perfect so I tried that and I had the same issues. The relative humidity stays at 10% to 14% so I doubted this. This was suggested a few times and I thought of this, but I dry all of my filament as soon as I open it and I store my filament in air tight cereal containers with desiccant. I checked and the air flow was fine for both the part fan and aux fan, even though I have the aux fan disabled in all of my profiles. And I did blow out the fans so maybe I broke something. I didn't think of this but it was a great idea because it does look like a cooling issue. Not sure how this would apply to layer 5, but I did clean the build plate to help with bed adhesion on the first layer. Others suggested this might be the issue and indeed it was. Maybe recalibrating does something in the software or resets something that previously worked. I am not sure why 21mm/sec worked with Overture PLA Plus before the recalibration. The fileted corners and overhangs look better too. I have A LOT of Sunlu PLA Plus filament and I tried the same print with my Sunlu PLA Plus Orange profile set at 21mm/sec and the infill printed perfectly. I started another print and the infill printed perfectly. I decreased the max volumetric flow from 21mm/sec to 15mm/sec and rechecked the gcode and the speed was around 220mm/sec. I checked the gcode and the infill lines were going at like 270mm/sec. I thought maybe the print head was moving faster than the filament was melting/flowing. As I was watching layer #5 and #6, the first layers with infill, I saw that the filament was not flowing fast enough. This post is a consolidation of all of the ideas because there were so many good ones and things to keep in mind if I (or you) have issues in the future.Ī few people made comments about speed and flow. After doing all the steps, I recalibrated the printer and then printed a toy for my nephew and the print was trash and inspired my previous post.įirst off, thank you to all who took the time to make a post with an idea for me to try! I had over 110 comments and there were so many ideas that I had never considered and I REALLY appreciate it! I've had the printer for 4 months and it's been rock solid and this was my first time doing the maintenance. On Tuesday, I performed the suggested monthly maintenance on my X1C.
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